Standard clothing patterns include "ease"—extra room built into the garment so the wearer can move, sit, and breathe. Underwear patternmaking relies on . The pattern pieces are drafted smaller than the actual body measurements. This ensures the fabric stretches to hug the body tightly without slipping. 2. Complex Sizing and Contouring
Shin’s method starts with the underwire shape and builds the pattern around it. This ensures a much more accurate fit because the wire is the structural foundation of any supportive bra.
The book's standout feature is the introduction of an innovative bra patternmaking technique developed by the author herself. Traditional bra-making has long been considered a highly specialized skill, with methods often hidden within proprietary company practices. Shin's Method demystifies this process by using a flat patternmaking concept to create bra patterns from basic body measurements.
Detail the specific tools needed for this type of patternmaking. patternmaking for underwear design kristina shin pdf
: Two-way stretch expands only crosswise, while four-way stretch expands both crosswise and lengthwise.
Unlike general patternmaking texts (Armstrong, Aldrich, etc.), Shin’s book focuses exclusively on —bras, panties, bodysuits, shapewear, and lingerie details. Published by Fairchild Books, it’s used in fashion programs that teach specialized lingerie construction.
Dr. Shin’s approach simplifies the complex geometry of the human body into logical drafting steps. The book focuses on creating a precise foundation before attempting complex styles. This ensures the fabric stretches to hug the
Mastering Lingerie Design: A Comprehensive Guide to "Patternmaking for Underwear Design" by Dr. Kristina Shin
: Full band, partial band, sports bras, and various cup seam styles.
: Patterns are drafted smaller than body measurements to ensure the garment hugs the skin securely. This ensures a much more accurate fit because
: The book focuses on flat patternmaking, specifically starting with the underwire shape rather than a standard bodice sloper—an approach many find more accurate for lingerie.
A critical element in underwear design is the crotch gusset. The pattern must account for comfort, seam placement to avoid chafing, and double-layer fabric lining.
: This refers to the holding power of the fabric; a high-modulus fabric requires less negative allowance.